shikara'ing in Srinaga

Monday. September 26th, 2011

What an absolute difference my 6th day in India has been than my first. At the spur of the moment after breakfast this morning, I decided to go for a shikara (think Kashmiri gondola) ride with the three tourists who arrived at the boat house yesterday. Two Belgian gals, an Israelite and me. I figured being with these gals would be a better experience than trying to secretly plan my way out of Srinaga alone. What a beautiful day it turned out to be. We sailed to an island-park in the middle of the lake, then to a mosque and had lunch in town. We even got to spend 20 minutes at the internet cafe and I got to buy some basic amenities (laundry detergent bar and lighter) learning then how much Gulzar had been syphoning off me; 100rupees for a roll of toilet paper, 300 rps for a bottle of beer, 80 rupees for 2 bottles of water -- the total of which should have been just around 180 rupees. (100 rupees = US$2.20) While this is all chump change, it ergs me that Gulzara has been pocketing all this under the guise of being a friend. I've not soon enough learned how these folks are so quick to make money off unsuspecting tourists, no matter who, no matter the amount.

Anyhow, I finally got to have dinner with the gals tonight in the formal dining room. I'm not sure why I've had to have my meals on the kitchen floor until now, but am taking it stride and not letting these small things bother me. It's all been such a crazy opportunity to learn, not only about this culture, but about myself and how I'm reacting to each situation. Every moment seems to leave me pondering how I can be with each in the most yogic manner I know how. Speaking of which, I taught my first yoga session in India tonight, an hour after dinner! All three gals were interested in it and so I took them through surya namaskar and a few other poses ending with a brief seated meditation. It was lovely for me!

Ah, I think the most profound moment today was when Stephanie asked what my religion is or what I believe in to which I replied my take on God and the universe, that all Gods are one. She immediately responded how wonderful it would be if more people shared my religious view that there would probably be less war. I am happy to give thanks in a church, temple, yoga studio or just in my heart. And I am so very glad to have moved past my paranoia of being in India!

FACING FEAR & PARANOIA in India
I seriously don't think I've ever been more afraid for my life than my first few days in India. While researching online for vaccinations for travelers, I'd constantly come across warnings that highly adviced against coming to the state of Jammu & Kashmir because of the civil war outbreaks. Lonely Planet guide suggested checking on the political situation first. I had not had any interest either since there was no yoga studios to be found here. The hotel managers in New Delhi scared me shitless to the beguiling tactics of the Kashmiris, telling me I should threaten the travel agent who'd signed me up for this trip by reporting them to the tourist police if they would not return my money for canceling out. All the warnings of friends and family kept booming out in my mind...It's not a good idea to go to India without a set travel plan; it's one thing to get cheated off my money but there are worse things that could happen; friends of a friend who'd gone trekking around the Pakistan border (where J&K is) were never to be found again. Up till yesterday, thoughts of the house boat owner, Mr. Boktoo, trying to kidnap me or steal all my valuables (not that I had much aside from this iPad and my passport) were still popping up in my head. Mr. Boktoo's secretive disposition didn't help my suspicions. When last night, after another failed attempt to sell me on an excursion, he pulled me aside, actually, to his father-in-law's house where a huge wedding banquet was taking place, to ask me a favor as to not let on the new traveler about my plans so that he could make some money off her, I couldn't have been more relieved. Yes, not for the sake of Yifat, the Israeli gal, who was scared shitless as it was, but for the fact that I finally understood their bizarre unexplainable behaviour! Oh, you mean you've not just been trying to trap me into staying in this god forsaken land forever and paying an arm and a leg, literally, for it? Grrrreat!!!!

Now, the circumstance has left me pondering how and what I had to do, not only for myself, but for Yifat. While I felt sad for these folks who somehow had such a need to take advantage of new tourists to their ancient lands, my sympathy in the end landed with Yifat, the innocent one who got bamboozled 5 times what I had. Nevertheless, I still feel sorry for this community. On the front, they seemed like such good, kind people. And in some instance, they have extended their version of warmth & hospitality. Had I been presented with the plight of this area in a more positive manner (it is quite a beautiful place actually) I may have been happily signing up to visit and more freely spending some money on excursions or purchasing souvenirs. I'd been planning to handsomely tip Gurzal upon my departure anyways. Ah, maybe I will still leave something. But I've been so trapped and turned off with their underhanded ways of going about business, I think I'll be happy to leave. Srinaga, however, has been one big yoga learning opportunity.