Saturday, September 24, 2011

Day 2 in Kashmir

September 24th, 2011

I survived my first full day in Srinaga! Got up around 9:30, practiced an hour of yoga with a little bit of mediation and got Gulzar to fetch me a bucket of hot water for a bath. It was awesome! I had to get a bit creative with the pail of water as it was filled almost to the brim. So I used 2 small containers to inter weave filling half cups of cold water with the hot water to splash myself with, one at a time! Tomorrow, I'll have to remember to ask Gulzar to just fill 3 quarters of the bucket! It's a pretty bare bones way of life. These are times I am thankful I was not born with a silver spoon in my mouth.

Mr. Baktook continues his insistence that I go on a trek or take the jeep to Leh, part of all the sales package that the french couple was subjected to I suppose. I tell him that I want to meet a friend (Ruben from Spain) at Cafe Robusta, and he eventually takes me there, with Gulzar as my escort, whom I was happy to have tag along. Even though I was disappointed Ruben was nowhere to be seen, I had a very nice walk around town towards the Shrine, or Masjid...I am not sure exactly which. Today, I'm a bit more comfortable looking like a tourist, maybe because Gulzar is with me. I don't think I've seen any asians around here, much less a lone female traveler. And it's quite obvious none of these Srinagans have before either! Or perhaps not in a long time.

Gulzar doesn't ask for a tip but asks if I want to share a beer tonight, which of course I'm buying. I gave him the money for it as he's been absolutely great to have around. I'm not sure I'd have ventured out by myself if not for him! I'm still contemplating how my exit out of Srinaga will be. Not counting tonight, I'll have 5 more nights here. I'm not sure I can last that long, largely due to the poor quality of food. Even though my fear of being kidnapped or being stripped clean of all my belongings are dissipating, I mostly just want to hang around the room so I can do my yoga, read and write. The fact that I don't have any cell phone reception in this region of India that tourists are highly adviced against visiting is what's freaking me out quite a bit. Thankfully, Mr. Bahtook took me to a travel agent friend who let me use his computer for about 15-20 minutes while both men just waited around for me to finish.

Late afternoon, Mr. Bahtook proceeds to drive me over to another "friend's" house to discuss an expedition for my remaining time in Kashmir. He drives through the same part of town Gulzar and I had been walking around, and then through some residential area with high walls encircling properties, which he touts as the rich area. My limited experience being in a muslim state brings forth imagery of Afghanistan I've seen on TV, especially when several bearded men walk out from one of the doors of these walls with traditional white muslim outfits and caps. But I retain my cool. Between my sad state of stereotyping and the less mad than Delhi traffic, my heart is still beating a pitter-patter that will probably register unhealthy on an electrocardiograph. I've spotted a handful of caucasian tourist who've become my points of confidence building. I figured between them and me, they're likely to get kidnapped first!

Dinner is rice and a vegetable curry that I eat heartily. This time, I escape to my room as quickly and quietly as I can, while no one is around me! I'm not sure why I feel obligated to to do any particular thing around the house. Perhaps because everything is so foreign to me. So I'm being watchful about what I say or do, lest they start yelling at me in the high intensity tone they seem to engage in conversation often. Gulzar has brought me an extra blanket and we sat chatting about life and relationships over the one bottle of beer. I know I will sleep well tonight!

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